Eastern Europe: Pickles

Hey, Spicebox Supperclub!  I shared Dave’s pickles from the last supperclub on Spicebox Travels with #LetsLunch, a virtual monthly potluck of food writers and bloggers from around the world.  This month’s theme is all about pickles and I hadn’t had a chance to post Dave’s recipes yet, so it was perfect timing.  Thanks, Dave, and here’s the post!

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Aside from my Quick Asian Pickles, which I posted recently, I am not much of a pickler. But I love to eat anything pickled. Pickles, and fermented foods in general, are all the rage these days. Dating back millennia, fermentation was one of the original methods to preserve food. These days, from kimchi to yogurt, it’s all about the probiotics. Probiotics, or good bacteria, are increasingly being seen as beneficial not only for digestive health but possibly also for allergies and even weight loss.

The most recent homemade pickles I’ve enjoyed were at a recent dinner by the supper club I’ve belonged to for the past year. Unlike other supper clubs, which are usually pop-up restaurants hosting meals for strangers, ours is a private affair. A year ago, a couple of friends proposed the idea of having a supper club. The idea for our supper club came about from a member who has vivid memories of his parents’ supper club in the ’70s, enigmatic adult-only dinner parties that would last into the wee hours of the morning. We’re reviving the model and plan quarterly themed dinner parties. We’re a group of four couples in San Francisco who share a love of food, travel, adventure and conversation. To be clear, we really, really love food. Several of us have been known to fly across the oceans in pursuit of one particular meal. As might be expected from people who travel to eat, we can be a bit fanatical in our menu planning.

While all of us were friends with the organizing hosts, several of us were strangers to each other when the supper club began. But after marathon dinners stretching for 6 hours or more, we’ve gotten to know each other quite well. A lot of things come up around food. One time, the host recalled a particularly embarrassing incident involving an ill-fitting sky blue suit jacket. (Sadly, this was before social media.) Another time, when we were going around sharing where we’d gone to college and what we’d studied, one of us couldn’t stop giggling at the revelation that another member had majored in European History. The rest of us are still not sure why that was so amusing. But, all is accepted without judgment in our supper club family. With all this bonding, these supper club dinners have produced some truly wonderful meals as well as nourished, or since we’re talking pickles, fermented some great friendships.

What have we cooked? The first year’s supper clubs explored ethnic themes, either based upon the host’s heritage or a recent trip. We started with an Asian Mashup, which explored one of the host’s Indian heritage as well as other food from Asia. That was followed by Comida Porteño, based upon the host’s recent trip to Buenos Aires. We followed with a Trini Carnival themed menu that explored the Indian and Afro-Carbiiean foods of my husband’s home, Trinidad. And most recently, we explored the foods of Eastern Europe and the varied Eastern European backgrounds of our hosts. If you’re interested in the menus, recipes and stories, please visit our group blog, Spicebox Supperclub. Who knows where we’ll go next?

Now, for the pickles. Our host, Dave, presented a trio of typical Eastern European pickles: cucumbers, carrots and turnips. These presented a bright and tart contrast to the rich Eastern European fare.

Quick Cucumber Pickles

from http://toriavey.com/toris-kitchen/2013/08/quick-pickles/

Prep Time: 10 Minutes
Total Time: 48 Hours
Servings: 10-12 pickles

Ingredients

8 garlic cloves, sliced
2 handfuls handfuls fresh dill
2 bay leaves
1 tsp peppercorns
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp dill seeds
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes (optional)
1/2 tsp celery seed
1/4 tsp fennel seed
1 ¾ lbs. Kirby or Persian cucumbers (small pickling cucumbers, no wax on skin)
4 cups water
1/2 cup white vinegar
3 tbsp kosher salt

Equipment

Two 1 quart mason jars or one ½ gallon jar, funnel, whisk, saucepan

Technique

1. Place the sliced garlic in a small saucepan of water and bring to a boil. Boil the garlic for 1 minute, then drain immediately. This blanching process will keep the garlic from turning blue in the pickle jar.
2. Place the blanched garlic, fresh dill, bay leaves and other spices into the pickling jar or jars. If using two jars, divide the ingredients evenly between them, half in each. The red pepper flakes are optional, and will add a little kick to your pickles—if you don’t like spice, feel free to omit.
3. Slice off the tip ends of each cucumber, then place them into the jars, half in each jar. It’s okay if they’re tightly packed, they will shrink up a bit as they pickle.
4. In a saucepan, bring the water, white vinegar, and kosher salt to a boil, whisking till the salt is fully dissolved. Boil the mixture for about 1 minute, then remove from heat. Pour the hot brine through a funnel into each jar, submerging the cucumbers completely in liquid.
5. Let the jars cool completely to room temperature (this will take a few hours). Secure the lids and place pickles in the refrigerator. Your first pickle will be ready to eat in 48 hours; they’ll become more pickled and flavorful as they age. Pickles will keep for up to 2 months.
Tip: For crunchier pickles, before pickling you can place the cucumbers in a bowl and cover them with ice water. Soak them in the refrigerator in ice water for 4-5 hours. Drain and proceed with recipe. If you already have pre-mixed pickling spice on hard, you may substitute 4 tsp pickling spice for the spices (if using two jars, divide the spices between jars, half in one, half in the other).

Pickled Turnips

from http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2012/09/pickled-turnips-turnip-recipe/

Ingredients

3 cups (750 ml) water
1/3 cup (70 g) coarse white salt, such as kosher salt or sea salt
1 bay leaf
1 cup (250 ml) white vinegar (distilled)
2-pounds (1 kg) turnips, peeled
1 small beet, or a few slices from a regular-size beet, peeled
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

Technique
1. In a saucepan, heat about one-third of the water. Add the salt and bay leaf, stirring until the salt is dissolved.

2. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Once cool, add the vinegar and the rest of the water.

3. Cut the turnips and the beet into batons, about the size of French fries. Put the turnips, beets, and garlic slices into a large, clean jar, then pour the salted brine over them in the jar, including the bay leaf.

4. Cover and let sit at room temperature, in a relatively cool place, for one week. Once done, they can be refrigerated until ready to serve.

Pickled Carrots

from http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2008/11/easy-pickled-carrots/

Ingredients

1 pound (450 g) carrots, peeled
1 1/4 cups (310 ml) water
1 cup (280 ml) cider vinegar
1/4 cup (50 g) sugar
2 garlic cloves, lightly-crushed
1 1/2 teaspoons fennel, dill, or anise seeds (See Note)
1 1/2 tablespoons coarse salt
2 bay leaves

Technique
1. Cut the carrots into stick approximately the size of your fourth finger. Bring a medium-sized pot of lightly-salted water to a boil. (Use a non-reactive pot.)

2. When the water boils, drop the carrots in and simmer for one minute. Pour into a colander and rinse under cold water. Drain thoroughly.

3. In the same pot, heat the remaining ingredients. Once it begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer for two minutes.

4. Remove from heat and add the carrot sticks. Cool until room temperature, then put into jars and chill.

Carrot sticks should be made at least one day in advance, and will keep for up to four weeks in the refrigerator.

Have any of you participated in a supper club before? If so, please share your stories!

And please come back later for more pickle recipes and stories from #LetsLunch.

Eastern Europe: Citrus in Rosemary Syrup

The last few bites of our Eastern European Spicebox Supperclub were some of my favorites.  For the third part of our dessert trio, Nalin treated us to a light and elegant dessert–  a medley of seasonal citrus in an herbal rosemary syrup.  The brightness of the citrus contrasted nicely with the rich crunch of chopped pistachios.

Sweet Citrus Rosemary Medley

Recipe adapted from the Shiksa in the Kitchen.

Servings: 8

Kosher Key: Pareve, Kosher for Passover

Prep Time: 30 Minutes

INGREDIENTS

4 1/2 lbs oranges – navel, cara cara, tangerines, moro blood oranges or a mix (if using smaller oranges, you may need more)

1 1/4 cups sugar

4 sprigs rosemary

2 tbsp pistachios – if you have nut allergies, omit

8 dates, sliced or chopped

8 sprigs mint for garnish (optional)

TECHNIQUE

1. Combine 1 1/4 cups sugar and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil, whisking to dissolve the sugar. Add the fresh rosemary sprigs and reduce heat to a simmer. Let the syrup simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat. Leave the rosemary sprigs to steep as the syrup cools.

2. Use a sharp paring knife or serrated knife to slice off the peel down the sides of the orange. Remove as much peel and white pith as possible. Try not to slice into the fruit itself (a little of the fruit will inevitably get sliced… just be as careful as you can). Once the peel is removed, slice the orange into thin ¼ inch rounds. Reserve slices and repeat process for remaining oranges.

3. When rosemary syrup has completely cooled, remove the rosemary with a slotted spoon and strain the syrup through a wire mesh strainer. Spread the peeled slices out in a pie dish or similar ceramic or glass container. Pour the rosemary syrup over them. If you’re using blood oranges/moro oranges, store those slices separately from the lighter colored slices in their own quantity of rosemary syrup, otherwise they will cause the lighter oranges and syrup to take on a reddish color. Cover the dish and refrigerate the orange slices for at least 2 hours, up to 2 days. Re-layer the orange slices every so often to make sure they’re all equally exposed to the sweet syrup.

4. Before serving, chop the pistachios in a food processor or coffee grinder into very fine pieces, somewhere in between chunks and powder, to create a coarse pistachio meal. Slice each date into thin strips. To serve, divide the chilled marinated orange slices between 8 small dessert plates. Drizzle each serving with 1-2 tbsp rosemary syrup, just enough to moisten (you will have leftover syrup, which you can use to flavor drinks). Sprinkle with 1 tsp chopped pistachios and top each orange slice with a date strip. Garnish with a sprig of mint. Serve. Note: If you have nut allergies, you can leave out the pistachios. The oranges taste delightful in their syrup without any additions, so if you want to keep things simple feel free to serve the oranges on their own in a glass dessert bowl garnished with mint.

Thanks for coming by! This is the last post of the Spicebox Supperclub’s Eastern European dinner.  If you missed them, please visit the overview of our lovely menu to see the rest of that fantastic meal.  We’ll be taking a break for a few months, so check back soon.  Who know where the Spicebox Supperclub will be taking you next?

Eastern Europe: Dessert Dumplings (Marillenknödel/Apricot Dumplings)

Because one dessert is not nearly enough for the Spicebox Supperclub, Nalin excused himself to the kitchen to freshly prepare those Eastern European dessert dumplings for us. This was an intriguing combination of dumpling dough filled with a fresh apricot, wish fresh shavings of dark chocolate as a garnish.

Marillenknödel (Apricot Dumplings)

Recipe from The Wednesday Chef (adapted from Nicole Stitch’s Marillenknödel – http://www.deliciousdays.com)

Makes 12

INGREDIENTS

1 pound fresh quark cheese

2 teaspoon of fresh lemon zest

12 small apricots

12 sugar cubes or 12 teaspoons of Demerara sugar

8 tablespoons soft unsalted butter

2 large egg yolk

1 1/2 cup semolina flour

4 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

A pinch of salt

Scant 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for forming

2/3 cup plain, unseasoned breadcrumbs (increase to 1 cup)

Powdered sugar

TECHNIQUE

1. Place the quark in a fine mesh sieve and let drain for an hour into the sink. If you don’t have an hour, 15 to 30 minutes are fine. Wash the apricots and dry them, then cut them open along their seams (only halfway!) and remove their pits. Fill with either a sugar cube or half a teaspoon of Demerara sugar.

2. Bring a large pot of water to boil, add a generous pinch of salt, and reduce the temperature until the water bubbles just very lightly.

3. In a big bowl cream together the strained quark, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons of soft butter, egg yolk, semolina, sugar, vanilla, and salt using a wooden spoon. When it’s well-combined and fluffy, fold in the flour. Don’t over-mix. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and with well-floured hands, form the dough gently into a thick log.

4. Cut the log into into 6 equally sized pieces. With floured hands, gently pat each piece into a small disc, then place a sugar-filled apricot in the middle of the dough and gently wrap the dough around the apricot. Form a neat little dumpling (re-flour your hands as necessary) and double check that the apricots are completely covered by the dough. There will be seams, but try to make sure they are as closed as possible.

5. Carefully slip the dumplings into the water and watch to make sure none got stuck to the bottom of the pot, stirring, if needed. Let them simmer at low heat for 12 to 14 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, melt the remaining butter in a pan over medium heat and toast the breadcrumbs in the butter for a few minutes. Remove the dumplings with a skimmer, then roll them in the pan with the buttered breadcrumbs until evenly covered. Pile the dumplings on a serving plate and dust generously with powdered sugar. Serve hot.

Yum! And for our final dessert, see you next week!

Eastern Europe: Chocolate Beet Cake

Heather, who normally shies away from the executive chef role, surprised us with the first of not just one but three desserts she and Nalin brought to the Supperclub.  This was a wonderful addition playing on the Eastern European theme by including beets, this time hidden in a luscious chocolate cake from Nigel Slater via David Lebovitz.  The beets added an incredible moistness and lightness to the cake and paired well with sour cream (also very Eastern European).  For the recipe, visit http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2011/11/moist-chocolate-beet-cake-recipe-nigel-slater/.

Come back next week for the next of the decadent Spicebox Supperclub’s trio of Eastern European desserts!

Eastern Europe: Sarma (Croatian Stuffed Cabbage)

You’d think that after those lovely (but not light) chicken and wild mushroom blintzes that we were done for the meal.  But no, not the Spicebox Supperclub.  We go all out, and then beyond! A wonderful counterpart to the blintzes were some of the best stuffed cabbage rolls we’ve ever had, paired with olive oil mashed potatoes.  These cabbage rolls were in tribute to Rani’s Croatian heritage.

Sarma (Croatian stuffed cabbage)

http://thelifeshemade.com/2012/08/03/sarma-croatian-stuffed-cabbage-rolls/

Notes from Chef Dave:

I added 1/4 tsp of cinnamon and some nutmeg.

I found that the jarred cabbage leaves were better and easier than making your own cabbage leaves in vinegared boiling water.

I took the cooked cabbage rolls our of the tomato/chicken broth mixture that the rolls have been cooking in and let them cool and then chilled them in fridge overnight. I then put the paprika and garlic roux in the tomato sauce and thickened it. Finally, I split the sauce in two, reserving half for reheating the rolls and blending the other half smooth.

Olive oil mashed potatoes

2 lbs Yukon gold, roughly cut
Salted water
1/3 cup olive oil
Pepper
Salt to taste

1. Cook the potatoes until the potatoes flake. Drain and reserve 1 cup of cooking water.
2. Heat olive oil, then take the pot off the flame. Put the drained potatoes in the hot oil (watch for spitting oil) and mash. Use reserved water to reach desired consistency.
3. Season with salt and pepper.

Eastern Europe: Chicken and Wild Mushroom Blintzes

Ever the culinary perfectionist, Dave did not deign to serve the Supperclub pre-made blintzes. Instead, he took a few moments to excuse himself to the kitchen to prepare this next, lovely course.  The rich aroma of butter was seductive, so much so that the less wise of us asked for two, not one, of these decadent blintzes upon their arrival to the table.

Chicken and Wild Mushroom Blintzes by David Tanis (modified)

Serves 8 -10.

http://www.nytimes.com/recipes/1015852/chicken-blintzes-with-wild-mushrooms.html

Note from Dave: I changed the mushrooms to use porcini and crimini instead of chanterelles. I also tripled (!) the blintze (crepe) recipe.

Eastern Europe: Russian Borscht

After the delightful Eastern European style salad nicoise, our palates were cleansed with a classic Russian Borscht, the iconic beet soup.  This was a delightful presentation, vegetable hearty yet light.  We learned that while borscht originated in the Ukraine, there are as many versions of borscht as there are cultures in Eastern Europe, including a green version made with sorrel and/or spinach.  Borscht may be served hot or cold.

Russian Borscht

modified from The New York Times Cookbook recipe

Serves 8.

Ingredients

1 qt beef broth or bouillon
1 qt water
2 cups shredded beets
1 cup shredded carrots
1 medium onion, chopped
2 TB tomato paste
2 TB vinegar
1 tsp sugar
2 TB butter
1/2 small cabbage, finely shredded
Freshly ground pepper
Salt to taste
2 bay leaves
Garnish: Sour cream and dill sprig

Technique

1. Heat the broth and water together in covered pot.
2. Meanwhile, in a large sauce pan, simmer the beets, carrots, tomato paste, vinegar, sugar and butter, covered, for 15 minutes. Stir frequently. Add shredded cabbage and cook 10 minutes longer.
3. Add vegetable mixture, pepper and bay leaves to broth. Adjust seasoning and cook until vegetables are tender. Add more vinegar, if desired.
4. Serve in warm bowls with sour cream and dill.

 

Eastern Europe: Eastern European “Salade Nicoise”

After Zwack hour(s?) we were ready for some solid sustenance.  The opener was a beautifully interpreted course of smoked fish.  Smoked fish is a major part of cuisine throughout Eastern Europe.  Some might find it to be heavy and traditional, but in this recipe, Dave gave us a lighter and more modern, delightful presentation.

Eastern European “Salade nicoise”

Ingredients

Two different smoked fish (used trout and Alaskan black cod/sable)
Hard boiled egg, sliced
Red radishes sliced thin, preferably by mandolin
Persian cucumbers sliced thin, preferably by mandolin
Finely diced serranos
Fresh dill
Lemon vinaigrette

Technique

Set up (individual serving): Put the two fish on opposite sides of the plate. Then put 2-3 slices of egg on each fish, then 5-7 slices of cucumber, 4-6 slices of radish, sprinkle some of the diced serrano (to taste) over the salad, then some dill sprigs and finally just a spoonful of vinaigrette.

Thanks for coming by! Please visit the overview of our Eastern European Supperclub and make sure to return next week for the next course.

Eastern Europe: Zwack! Cocktail Hour and the Perfect Challah

Chris proved his chops as a Master Mixologist with a survey of Zwack liqueurs from Hungary.  Not satisfied with shots of each of the liqueurs in their pure forms, he also treated us to 3 masterfully mixed cocktails bringing out the unique fruity character of each.

For a little history, Chris found this information on drinkhacker.com:

Zwack Unicum Liqueur – This spirit, originally crafted from more than 40 herbs and spices in 1790. Very bitter, it’s a digestif for the Fernet fan, with sweetness a distant afterthought. Pushing past the initial shock of bitterness, Unicum offers a heavy cinnamon note character, with orange peel beneath. Secondary notes include licorice, dark chocolate, dried herbs, and some wood, driven by the six months Unicum spends in oak barrels before bottling. This is a solid alternative to Fernet, offering its own take on the bitter liqueur without reinventing the category.

Zwack Liqueur – Alternately known as “Unicum Next” internationally, this is Unicum’s lighter-colored and far sweeter take on Unicum, clearly designed for a younger, more sweet-toothed audience. Slightly syrupy, Zwack is quite fruity, driven as I noted in my original review by cherry notes — though these are more of the cherry jelly variety than the fresh fruit. It’s quite a different beast than Unicum, one which lends itself to drinking as a shot, using as a mixer, and generally appealing to a more novice drinker. That’s neither good nor bad… but it’s not Unicum.

Zwack Unicum Plum Liqueur  – Take Unicum and age it instead for six months in oak casks on a bed of dried plums (huge in Hungary) and you have Unicum Plum. The nose isn’t immediately distinguishable from Unicum, licorice and spice notes. The body is instantly familiar, but brings more fruit to the table — a Port-like prune character that helps to balance out some of Unicum’s overwhelming bitterness. If you’re looking for something somewhere in between Unicum and Zwack on the bitter to sweet spectrum, Unicum Plum may fit the bill, though I find the bitter Unicum more exciting.

 

Zwack Cocktails

Adapted from recipe by Joaquín Simó, the New York City bartender best known for his work at Death and Co. and Pouring Ribbons. Unicum and Zwack are traditionally consumed as shots, but their herbal makeup gives you plenty to work with when mixing drinks.

Hungarian Orchard

1 ounce Zwack

1/2 ounce apple brandy

1 ounce fresh orange juice

Apple slices for garnish

Fresh grated cinnamon for garnish

Combine Zwack, apple brandy and orange juice into a cocktail with ice and shake vigorously. Strain contents into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with apple slices and fresh grated cinnamon.

Masked Man

1/2 ounce Unicum

1 ounce apple brandy

1/2 ounce pumpkin spice syrup

1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

Grated nutmeg for garnish

Add all ingredients to a mixing glass with ice. Stir well and strain contents into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with grated nutmeg.

Unicum Plum Cobbler

1 ounce Unicum Plum

1/2 ounce aperitif (I used apple brandy)

1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice

1/4 ounce simple syrup

1/2 tbsp strawberry preserves

3 dashes aromatic bitters

Lemon peel for garnish

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, add ice and shake vigorously. Pour contents into a Nick & Nora glass (or a coupe). Garnish with lemon peel.

 

Both to serve as a warm and meaningful welcome, and to to ensure that the Spicebox Supperclubbers could make it through the meal, Dave presented us with a beautiful challah.

Dave writes,

We were going for two different traditions with the bread:

Slavic tradition of welcoming distinguished guests with bread and salt.
http://www.adorableland.com/traditional-slavs-greeting-of-bread-and-salt/

and

Jewish tradition of serving challah with salt.
http://www.chabad.org/library/article_cdo/aid/484194/jewish/Why-dip-in-salt.htm

From a culinary point of view, the salt provided a nice flavor contrast to the slight sweetness of the dough and the raisins.  The recipe from the challah comes from Zabar’s, that great New York deli, to which Dave’s family has a personal connection (almost could have been related!)

Simple Sweet Challah
from Andrea Watman

http://www.zabars.com/SIMPLE_SWEET_CHALLAH_PRINT.html

This is my favorite Challah recipe. It is easy to make – and the sweet taste of the bread is just wonderful. I serve it warm with honey on Rosh Hashanah. Growing up my Grandma Bertha made dinner every Friday night. She set a beautiful table with a Challah as the centerpiece. No, she didn’t bake it – she walked to 161st Street and Gerard Avenue in the Bronx – to The G & R Bakery. If you lived anywhere near Yankee Stadium The G & R Bakery was where you met on Friday’s. You had to go early in the day because there would always be a line. The Challah was so shiny that as I child I thought it was polished. For years I tried to bake Challah and could never master it. This recipe has never failed me – so I hope you’ll give it a try.

Ingredients:
2 packages dry yeast
2/3 Cup Warm Water (110 degrees)
5 Egg Yolks – Lightly Beaten
3 Whole Eggs – Lightly Beaten
7 Tablespoons Corn Oil
½ Cup Sugar
2 Teaspoons Salt
4 ½ Cups Flour
1 Cup Raisins (Optional)
1 Egg Yolk – Beaten
Poppy Seeds (optional)

Preparation:
1. In cup or small bowl dissolve Yeast in the warm water with approx 1 tablespoon of sugar. After just a few minutes the yeast should begin to “bloom”. It will become foamy and it will give off a sweet smell. If your yeast is not fresh this will not happen – do not go any further – start over with fresh yeast.

2. In a large bowl mix Egg Yolks, Eggs, Oil, remaining Sugar, Salt and Yeast mixture.

3. Add enough flour to form stiff but sticky dough (you can do this in a stand mixer – using the dough hook attachment).

4. Then turn dough out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic (adding more flour if needed) – about 6 minutes – work in raisins as kneading.

5. Form a ball and place in a greased bowl and turn dough so all sides are greased. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and place in warm area to double in bulk – about two hours.

6. Punch down and knead briefly.

7. Roll dough into a 24” long rope. Create a spiral round loaf. (Sometimes I divide the dough into three parts, then I make three smaller ropes and braid them – then I form a circle from with the braid).

8. Place on baking sheet lined with parchment.

9. Brush loaf with beaten egg yolk, sprinkle top with poppy seeds (if desired), and allow too rise until dough doubles in size – about 45 minutes.

10. Bake until golden brown in a pre-heated 375 degree oven – 35 to 40 minutes.

11. Allow to cool before slicing and enjoy!

 

Did you enjoy this sample of Eastern European food and drink? Visit the overview of our menu and come back next week for the delightful first course.  Thanks for coming by!

Spicebox Supperclub: Eastern Europe Edition

From the warm rhythms of Trinidad, the Spicebox Supperclub took a journey to a very different place– the cultures of Eastern Europe.  This was to celebrate the heritage of our hosts, Dave and Rani, whose heritage trace to many parts of Eastern Europe.  Rani’s ancestry includes Croatian, Lithuanian and Polish and Dave’s, Ukrainian Jew and Polish/Belarusian Jew.

For this Supperclub, we went all out, to also dress in the style of our theme.  It was interesting to discover that “Eastern European dress” did not mean the black and wine velvet that Heather and Linda imagined.  Rather, flowing white cotton blouses and skirts elaborately embroidered in colorful patterns appear to be traditional, including headdresses for the advanced.  Somehow, the women managed to carry it off.  Rani made a great find at a local thrift shop, accentuated by an apron from her daughter’s collection.  Diana borrowed a convincing headdress from her daughter, purchased from a grandparent’s trip to Eastern Europe.  And Heather and Linda both managed to assemble Eastern European outfits from their everyday wardrobes (not sure what that says!).

The men were less embroidered, with Peter, the Island Boy, excepted.  In face, somber hues of charcoal and black seemed to be the unspoken theme, and appropriately dour for Eastern European history.

And the food was fresh and inventive, yet true to theme.  Here’s an overview of the menu:

Spicebox Supperclub Dinner #4, May 3, 2014

Eastern Europe

_________________________________________________________________________

Hosts: Rani and Dave

Executive Chef: Dave

Bartender: Chris

Sommelier: Peter

Pastry Chefs: Heather and Nalin

Menu

Welcome:

Sweet Challah served with salt

Cocktails:

Zwack Unicum Liqueur

Zwack Liqueur

Zwack Unicum Plum Liqueur

Hungarian Orchard

Masked Man

Unicum Plum Cobbler

Main Courses:

Eastern European “Salade nicoise”

Coronica Malvasia 2012 (Istria, Northern Croatia)

Russian borscht

2009 J&J Eger Eged-Hegy Kékfrankos (Hungary)

Chicken and wild mushroom blintzes

2011 Fekete Béla Juhfark Somló (Hungary)

Sarma (Croatian cabbage rolls) with olive oil mashed potatoes

Umathum Zweigelt Classic 2011 (Austria)

Sides:

Pickled carrots
Pickled turnips and beets
Dill pickles (cukes)

Desserts:

Apricot filled dumplings

Chocolate Beet Cake

Oranges in rosemary syrup with crushed pistachios

Tinon Dry Szamorodni 2007 (Tokaj, Hungary)

2008 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos (Tokaj, Hungary)

_________________________________________________________________________

And here’s a bit from Sommelier Peter, who delved deeply into the history of Eastern European wines:

Coronica Malvasia 2012

Coronica was established in 1992 by Moreno Coronica after the fall of communist Yugoslavia.  Today he lives in his family home with his wife children and father who still prefers to speak in Italian.  He is dismissive of wines that boast of flavors foreign to Istria, like tropical fruits, as for the ‘market’. To quote Moreno, “wine must taste like wine”.
He professes a faith in the terroir of Istria and its indigenous varieties and strives to develop his own ability to interpret them.

Moreno Coronica’s Malvazija is considered a benchmark example of this indigenous version. It represents almost 75% of his entire production. Peppery citrus, sea shells and bright without being overshadowed by acid alone. In lieu of Garrigue, Croatians champion ‘Freškina’ (sent of the sea) – imagine the sun beating down on rocks covered in seaweed.  Malvasia Istriana, one of Friuli’s favorite grapes, is named for the rust-colored soil of Istria in northern Croatia, where it originates. Like many of its Italian cousins, Coronica Malvasia 2012 smells of Meyer lemons and the sweet-scented acacia that blankets the countryside.

2009 J&J Eger Eged-Hegy Kékfrankos

J and J Eger Wine Company is the product of an unexpected partnership between Canadian born Hungarian and Master Sommelier John Szabo and physician and Eger native and winemaker Dr. János Stumpf. Ultimately it was their shared fascination with the cool North Hungarian terroir of Eger and the exotic mineral rich reds, made from the local variety Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch). Their tiny 500 case production, more a professionally attended to hobby than a production is based around prime parcels of vineyards located on the steepest most exposed hill overlooking the town of Eger. The soil here is almost completely limestone overlaid with a thin layer of clay.

The 2009 is a revelatory balancing act between acid and gripping pungency. Harmonious, layered, and age worthy, the wines of J&J Eger Wine Company have the potential to be legendary. Still very much in its youth, it is a deep garnet hued wine with a perfume that leaps from the glass. Complex aromas of cranberry sandalwood and rose hips contrast its not so subtle minerality. Though grown in limestone it smells of granite. Rich without being overripe, the structured and savory almost herbal nature of the variety and its fresh acidity make this wine versatile for the table as well. Pair with herbed pheasant, lamb, pungent creamy cheeses and whole grain based dishes like barley or faro. For the authentic experience try Dr. Stumpf’s recommendation of wild venison sausage.

The 2007 was Sommelier favorite from Eastern Europe Wine & Spirits Magazine “It drinks like a Rhône syrah in terms of the depth of fruit; but it feels more like Burgundy – it has that sort of texture and acidity. One of the most successful pairings we’ve ever done with it is a 16-hour sous vide belly crisped in skillet. It’s good with duck, too; some people even drink it with fish.” —Santos Uy, somm/owner Papilles and Mignon, Los Angeles”

2011 Fekete Béla Juhfark Somló

Juhfark (Sheep’s tail) is a distinctive, almost extinct white grape variety found almost exclusively in Somló. The clusters are long, tightly packed and curve a little at the end hence the Sheep’s tail moniker. Naturally very high in acidity, it’s also fairly neutral on its own and instead absorbs and communicates the volcanic terroir rather than pronounced fruit flavors. However, after a few years in bottle this wine really comes alive. According to Bay Area restaurateur Jeff Berlin, “it’s the ultimate yin and yang wine in that it is at once rich, opulent and elegant but has such prominent veins of volcanic ash and minerality running through it at the same time. Super sexy, both masculine and feminine, like a Caligulan feast in a glass.” Although Béla recommends drinking it with roasted wild fowl, Middle Eastern flavors like green olives, roasted red pepper and Za’atar are all amazing flavor combinations.

90 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine for the 2009 vintage: “At 84 years old, Fekete Bela still tends his ten acres of vineyard in Somló by himself, lending some credence to the old Hungarian belief that Juhfark has health-giving properties. His version is as sharp and mineral as a Fino Sherry, with a wooly lanolin-like texture padding the searing acidity. It’s not for the faint of heart, but it would make short work of grilled bluefish.”

Want to learn to pronounce it like a native? Here’s a short video clip from one of Peter’s residents:

 

Umathum Zweigelt Classic 2011

Zweigelt is a dark-skinned grape that has, since its development in 1922, become Austria‘s most widely planted red-wine variety. This high-yielding vine is now grown in almost every Austrian wine region from Bergland in the west to Burgenland in the east. Following its success in Austria, the variety is now becoming popular in the Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary and Slovakia. Small-scale plantings have also been trialed further afield, in Canada, Japan and England.  A crossing of Saint-Laurent with Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt was developed by Dr Friedrich ‘Fritz’ Zweigelt, the viticulturist after whom it is named.  Farmed biodyamically, the juice ferments on its native yeasts and it finally aged in large neutal oak casks for about eight months.

FROM THE WINEMAKER: “Grown in mineral rich, stony soil in the country surrounding the village of Frauenkirchen, a very warm and dry soil adds a mineral taste. The resulting wine is dark red with purple rim, peppery and fruity aromas in the nose, on the palate cherries and spicy notes with impressions of chocolate, fine, mild and full-bodied finish.”
TRY WITH: Spicy dishes and game.

Tinon Dry Szamorodni 2007

Although born in the sweet wine appellation of Sainte-Croix-du-Mont in France, Samuel Tinon has chosen Tokaj as the best place to grow wine and raise his three children. He’s also quick to remind us all that Tokaj was the favored drink and muse for Leo Tolstoï, Pablo Néruda, Honoré de Balzac, Gustave Flaubert, Diderot, and Voltaire, so he’s already in good company. As the first Frenchman to settle in Tokaj in the modern privatization era, he’s also convinced that Tokaj possesses all the same greatness as Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy.

Originally called Ordinárium (ordinary wine) in the 1600’s, Főbor (prime wine) after that, and later, due to the immense popularity in the Polish market, Szamorodni (as comes off the vine) became the official name (itself a Polish word) in the early 1800’s. In short, this refers to healthy, shriveled and botrytized grapes all being harvested and fermented together. However, dry Szamorodni goes a few steps further by adding Claspodorium cellare (a special mold that covers the entire cellar) and a native yeast veil (flor) that protects the wine in barrel.

93 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine: “Samuel Tinon grew up in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, a sweet wine appellation in Bordeaux, and came to Tokaj in 1991, to work at Oremus. He ended up buying a house and two hectares of 90-year-old vines in Olaszliszka, and started producing his own wines in 2000. Tinon looks to the old tradition of aging wine under a veil of yeast for his Szamorodni and ages it long enough for evaporation to drop the alcohol to less than 15 percent. It smells like an Amontillado Sherry, all nuts, button mushrooms and salt; it feels succulent with crisp green fruit, fresh radish and a scent that recalls a moist, chalky underground cellar. As easy to drink as a Fino with fried things and grilled vegetables, this will last for months in the fridge after opening, ready to incite an appetite.”

Sommelier favorite from Eastern Europe Wine & Spirits Magazine Pascaline Lepeltier pours this at Rouge Tomate in NYC is pouring it with her tasting menu—”to go with a porcini farrotto with some Anson Mills farro piccolo, a little bit of parmesan and a white asparagus espuma—you also have a little bit of white and green asparagus, and some roasted porcini.”

2008 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos

Better known for its paprika than its wine, Hungary is nonetheless one of Eastern Europe’s most significant wine-producing countries. Exerjo, Furmint, Hárslevelü and Mezesfeher are just some of the indigenous (and unpronounceable!) varieties most widely planted. And Tokaji is Hungary’s biggest success story. Made since the sixteenth century, Tokaji is an extremely sweet wine that was adored by the Russian Tsars. It is made in a manner similar to Sherry, and is reputed to be the longest lived, non-fortified wine in existence (a few hundred years is not unheard of).

93 points Wine Spectator: A ripe, lush sweetie, with bright acidity backing notes of golden raisin, dried apricot and pineapple that linger through the spicy finish. Drink now through 2024. 2,500 cases made. –NW (6/ 2013)

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