This is where the mash-up really began. We started with the Singapore Sling, the iconic cocktail of multicultural Singapore, followed with traditional South Indian street food, and had miso soup made in the classical Japanese tradition last week. This week’s post highlights the first course to combine these different cultures, with a Japanese miso-glazed salmon served along with an Indian condiment. It may not sound like an obvious combination, but like many unexpected pairings, the sum is greater than its parts.
The traditional Japanese recipes were all from Serious Eats. As part of the mash-up, we enjoyed it with an Indian mint and cilantro chutney; not just any chutney, but Chef Nalin’s family recipe, which he was so kind (after some prodding) to share with the Spicebox Supperclub and our readers.
Miso-Ginger Salmon
Ingredients
1/4 cup white miso
1/4 cup mirin
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons minced green onions
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
4 salmon fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Procedures
In a small bowl, whisk together the first 7 ingredients until smooth. In a small baking dish, cover the salmon fillets with the marinade and turn a few times to coat. Cover and marinate for 30 minutes, turning occasionally.
Remove the fillets from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Preheat a grill (or broiler). If using a grill, grill the salmon skin-side down until the skin is golden and crisp, about 3-4 minutes, then turn over and grill an additional 3-4 minutes. If using a broiler, broil skin-side down without flipping, until the salmon is cooked through and well-caramelized on the top, 4-5 minutes. Serve with rice.
Note: Use 1/2” thick salmon fillets; raise from bottom of pan to prevent fish from getting soggy.
Sumeshi – vinegared sushi rice
(posted by J. Kenji López-Alt, July 13, 2010 at 9:00 AM, Serious Eats)
Make sure that the rice vinegar you are using is not labeled “seasoned” rice vinegar, which already has sugar added to it. I like my rice relatively highly seasoned, but the sugar and vinegar levels can be adjusted to taste.
Ingredients
3 cups short grain sushi rice
3 1/3 cups water
1 piece of konbu, about 4 by 3 inches (see note)
3/4 cup rice vinegar (see note)
1/2 cup sugar
3 teaspoons kosher salt
Procedures
Place rice in fine mesh strainer and rinse under cold running water, gently agitating with hands until liquid runs clear. Add rinsed rice and water to rice cooker and cook. Alternatively, place in a heavy-bottomed 2 quart saucepot with a tight-fitting lid. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, turn heat to lowest setting, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes until all liquid is absorbed and rice is tender.
Meanwhile, combine konbu, vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until sugar and salt are dissolved.
Transfer rice to a 13-inch by 9-inch nonreactive casserole dish (like a pyrex) and spread gently into an even layer using a rice paddle. Aim a fan set to low directly at rice and keep it running during the rest of this step. Carefully sprinkle 3/4 of vinegar mixture over rice by drizzling it over the back of the rice paddle. Combine the rice and vinegar by gently folding it in with a cutting motion, being careful not to bruise or crush any rice grains. Taste rice and, if desired, add more of vinegar mixture. Continue fanning rice and folding until rice stops steaming and grains have achieved a slightly glossy texture that just sticks together when you squeeze them. Keep sushi rice at room temperature covered in a clean damp dish towel, or plastic wrap pressed directly against its surface.
Sweet Soy Glaze
Ingredients
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 cup sake
1 cup sugar
1-inch knob ginger, roughly sliced
2 garlic cloves, roughly sliced
2 scallions, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Procedures
Combine the soy sauce, sake, sugar, ginger, garlic, and scallions in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over high heat stirring until the sugar dissolves. Reduce to a bare simmer and cook until sauce is syrupy and reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 20 minutes. Strain and discard solids. Reserve sauce.
Mint-Cilantro Chutney, Chef Nalin’s family recipe
This is part of the Asian Mash-Up menu, presented by Chef Nalin.
What other unexpected cuisines have you combined? What worked well? What didn’t work well?
I didn’t really mention above why I chose this particular combination. I wanted a bridge between the Indian chaat, which has strong flavors, and the stronger flavored main dish; but didn’t want overpowering spices. So that’s why I went with the Japanese-influenced small plates. A long time ago, I prepared a sea bass dish with saffron, which was fantastic since it brought out the beautiful seafood flavors without fussiness. I thought the simplicity of the broiled salmon, with flavors heightened with miso and ginger would go well with the mint/cilantro chutney. Also, the ginger in the salmon marinade linked nicely with the ginger in the mint/cilantro chutney. The sushi rice was just to make sure people didn’t get too hungry before the main dish! I had some of the sweet soy glaze from another dish, so I used it to coat the ‘disk’ of sushi rice. It turned out fairly well.
Hi Chef Nalin, thanks for the explanation of the unexpected but delicious pairing. It worked very well and the disc of rice made for a very professional presentation. And thanks again for sharing the family recipe for the chutney!